Materials:
Hat A: Patons Silk Bamboo, approx 125 yards
Hat B: Caron Country, approx 125 yards
Hook: 5 mm
TIP: Some yarns, like bamboo blends, tend to produce a heavy fabric. When using a heavy yarn like Patons Silk Bamboo, you may want to substitute a slightly smaller hook so that the weight of the yarn does not stretch the hat. This is particularly true if you tend to crochet loosely.Markers: one to mark each row and one to hold your stitch when you put your work down
Guage:
Hat A: 14 st x 12 rows = 4"
Hat B: 16 st x 12 rows = 4"
Stitches used (US terminology):
ch = chain
ea = each
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
Technique used:
Although crocheted using a hdc, the texture is created by inserting the hook under the back loop and the rear horizontal bar, resulting in the front loop as a bar running the width of the fabric that faces me when working [see the underside of this hat pictured below]. This side is the wrong side and will remain hidden. The reverse side, or the side facing away from you, creates a cool texture like a sideways garter stitch. It should be noted that the wrong side can actually be the right side when worked in sc for a hat, which creates an interesting texture as well. Many thanks to coworker Rosanna for introducing me and my fellow Crochet Collaborators to this technique last year.
The pattern itself is quite simple to memorize. The spiral ray is created by a "ch1-2hdc-ch1" separated by an increasing (or decreasing) number of hdc stitches. The hat is crocheted continuously in the round rather than joining each row with a slip st and chaining 2 for the next row. Joining each round would create a unsightly seam that would interfere with the textured pattern.
Ch 4, sl st to join, forming ring
Row 1: ch 2, 7 hdc in ring [8 st]
TIP: Remember to keep the tail of the yarn to the right of all the hdc stitches as you add them. This will make it easier to pull the ring closed.Row 2: 2 hdc in ea st [16 st]
Row 3: *hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st, * rep to marker [24 st]
Row 4: *hdc in first two st, 2 hdc in next st, * rep to marker [32 st]
TIP: the 2 hdc in next st must be worked in the 2 hdc of previous row
Row 6: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 2 st, ch 1, sk next ch, 2 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, * rep to marker [48 st]TIP: when first working row 6, there may be some confusion as to where to insert the hook after the ch1-2hdc-ch1 stitch combo. I had the same problem. Here is a picture of where to insert your hook. Note that when you finish the ch1-2hdc-ch1 combo, it looks like you have two chains, when in reality, there is only one. The best way I can describe what to do after the 2hdc is to insert your hook into the “chain” to the right of the first hdc of the row below.This is what it should look like:
TIP: Hat should begin to curl up. If it appears too flat, substitute sc for each hdc in row 17
[TIP: If brim is too loose, change to a slightly smaller hook, such as a 4.00 mm or 4.5 mm hook]

