Oct 11, 2010

PATTERN: Sun-Ray Slouch



Materials:
Hat A: Patons Silk Bamboo, approx 125 yards 
Hat B: Caron Country, approx 125 yards
Hook:  5 mm 
TIP: Some yarns, like bamboo blends, tend to produce a heavy fabric.  When using a heavy yarn like Patons Silk Bamboo, you may want to substitute a slightly smaller hook so that the weight of the yarn does not stretch the hat.  This is particularly true if you tend to crochet loosely.
Markers: one to mark each row and one to hold your stitch when you put your work down

Guage:
Hat A: 14 st x 12 rows = 4"
Hat B: 16 st x 12 rows = 4"


Stitches used (US terminology):
ch = chain
ea = each
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch


Technique used:
Although crocheted using a hdc, the texture is created by inserting the hook under the back loop and the rear horizontal bar, resulting in the front loop as a bar running the width of the fabric that faces me when working [see the underside of this hat pictured below].  This side is the wrong side and will remain hidden. The reverse side, or the side facing away from you, creates a cool texture like a sideways garter stitch. It should be noted that the wrong side can actually be the right side when worked in sc for a hat, which creates an interesting texture as well.  Many thanks to coworker Rosanna for introducing me and my fellow Crochet Collaborators to this technique last year.


The pattern itself is quite simple to memorize.  The spiral ray is created by a "ch1-2hdc-ch1" separated by an increasing (or decreasing) number of hdc stitches.  The hat is crocheted continuously in the round rather than joining each row with a slip st and chaining 2 for the next row. Joining each round would create a unsightly seam that would interfere with the textured pattern.


INSTRUCTIONS


Ch 4, sl st to join, forming ring
Row 1: ch 2, 7 hdc in ring [8 st] 
TIP: Remember to keep the tail of the yarn to the right of all the hdc stitches as you add them.  This will make it easier to pull the ring closed.
Row 2: 2 hdc in ea st [16 st]
Row 3: *hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st, * rep to marker [24 st]
Row 4: *hdc in first two st, 2 hdc in next st, * rep to marker [32 st]
Row 5: ch 1, sk hdc, *hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc, 2 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next hdc, * rep to marker [40 st]
TIP: the 2 hdc in next st must be worked in the 2 hdc of previous row
Row 6: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 2 st, ch 1, sk next ch, 2 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, * rep to marker [48 st]





TIP: when first working row 6, there may be some confusion as to where to insert the hook after the ch1-2hdc-ch1 stitch combo.  I had the same problem. Here is a picture of where to insert your hook. Note that when you finish the ch1-2hdc-ch1 combo, it looks like you have two chains, when in reality, there is only one. The best way I can describe what to do after the 2hdc is to insert your hook into the “chain” to the right of the first hdc of the row below.
        This is what it should look like: 


Row 7: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 3 st, ch 1, sk next ch, 2 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, * rep to marker [56 st]
Row 8: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 4 st, ch 1, sk next ch, 2 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, * rep to marker [64 st]
Row 9: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 5 st, ch 1, sk next ch, 2 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, * rep to marker [72 st]
Row 10: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 6 st, ch 1ch 1, sk next ch, 2 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, * rep to marker [80 st]
Row 11: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 7 st,ch 1, sk next ch, 2 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, * rep to marker [88 st]
Row 12: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 8 st, ch 1, sk next ch, 2 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, * rep to marker [96 st]
Row 13: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 9 st,ch 1, sk next ch, 2 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, * rep to marker [104 st]
Rows 14-17: Repeat row 13  [104 st]
TIP: Hat should begin to curl up.  If it appears too flat, substitute sc for each hdc in row 17
Row 18: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 3 st, hdc2tog in next st, hdc in next 4 st, ch1, sk ch, 2hdc in next st, ch 1, sk ch, * rep to marker [96 st]
Row 19: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 3 st, hdc2tog in next st, hdc in next 3 st, ch1, sk ch, 2hdc in next st, ch 1, sk ch, * rep to marker [88 st]
Row 20: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 2 st, hdc2tog in next st, hdc in next 3 st, ch1, sk ch, 2hdc in next st, ch 1, sk ch, * rep to marker [80 st]
Row 21: ch 1, sk ch, *hdc in next 2 st, hdc2tog in next st, hdc in next 2 st, ch1, sk ch, 2hdc in next st, ch 1, sk ch, * rep to marker [72 st]
Row 22:  *hdc in ch, hdc in ea hdc, * rep to marker [72 st]
Row 23: hdc in ea st [72 st]

BRIM
[TIP: If brim is too loose, change to a slightly smaller hook, such as a 4.00 mm or 4.5 mm hook]
Rows 24-27: repeat row 23 [72 st]
Row 28: sc in ea st to the last 3 st, sl st in last 3 st [72 st]
Bind off, weave in ends.


12 comments:

Anonymous said...

this is beautiful, but I can not copy and paste to save it.....

teerose said...

lovely pattern you can cut and paste. after copying, click on the color of the text and mark as black, it will appear.

Rachel said...

Love your pattern, thanks for sharing! I love that you are an Aunt Mommy, I've never heard it before. I'm an Aunt Mommy as well. I raised a nephew, he's now 26. I am now helping to raise two nieces ages 7 & 10. I love to crochet for them!

Richard said...

Beautiful crocheted hats! I will have to try them out.

I could not see how to comment on your genealogy items. My Grandmother on my Father's side was a Wynn from Washington, North Carolina where Caron International yarns is located now. I am Caucasian as was Grand Mom. I never met my Great Grandparents on my Father's side so, I cannot give you any other information as to the Wynn's from that area. Wish I knew more also. You are welcome to email me at Archer1955@gmail.com

Richard in Charlotte,NC.

Anonymous said...

i love this pattern and am going to start making it, but want to make it bigger in the back to hold my dreads. i am a semi-new crocheter and appreciate your help :)

L said...

Hey, I love the pattern and will make it soon. You have been on a roll with the patterns and the blog layout. Very good!!!
Linda

VicJoRob said...

Anonymous-
There are various ways to expand such a pattern. One way would be to keep expanding the hat another inch before matching stitch for stitch. Then, delay the decreasing until you have an extra inch or two of the hat body.

THis would give you more head room without distorting the hat.

If you need to reach me, send me an e-mail at vicjorob@hotmail.com.

Anonymous said...

I am stuck of row 14-17. I cannot for the life of me figure out how this works. It looks distorted the way I'm doing it. Please email me at majesticroze@yahoo.com

Thank you

Anonymous said...

I was stuck on the rows 14-17 too and I decided to drop 8 of the Ch st. Here is what I did: ch1, sk Ch, *
hdc in the next 10 Ch, sk next Ch, 2 hdc in the next st, ch1, sk cg, *rep to marker.

viajerajulie said...

I am so confused here! I'm a novice crocheter trying to make this hat for a friend. I got through row 6 with little trouble, 7 went fine, but now in 8 I'm not understanding the hdc in beginning of the round. When I finish doing them, it says 'sk ch' but the next stitch doesn't seem to be a chain, it seems to be the top of the second hdc of previous round. What am I doing wrong here?

Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Julie Bacon said...

I only wish it didn't have a green background so I didn't waste all my ink printing. Love the pattern! Thanks!

levana-b said...

This pattern came out really nicely and I love it.

For those of you who are confused, I found that every row from 5 onward should only begin with a ch1 sk ch, not end, so like
*ch 1, sk hdc, *hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc, 2 hdc in next st,* repeat to the end.
For repeating rows 14 - 17, I also found that 9 hdc, ch 1, sk the 10th hdc AND the ch sp, then 2hdc in the previous row's 2hdc works best and maintains the appearance.

Hope this helps. thanks for a great pattern!